7.2

HAND OVER FIST

Luca Nicholas
Luca Nicholas
13.02.25–15.03.25
Without the hand, there is no artefact, nothing to sell, nothing to archive. Without the hand, there is no flourish, no flex, and no fist.
Season is delighted to present Hand Over Fist, an exhibition of prints made by Luca Nicholas during his 2024 residency at the Frans Masereel Centrum in Belgium. The works focus on the Belgian fashion designer Dries Van Noten, developing out of the artist’s interest in the secondary market for men’s fashion, and particularly ‘archival fashion’: high-level thrifting that operates at the intersection of capital, culture, and scarcity. Archivists seek the ‘grail’, an article of clothing ascribed significant cultural and monetary value. Nicholas notes: ‘Exclusivity in this field breeds an aura of elitism; the girls that get it, get it: iykyk. As archival fashion becomes increasingly more mainstream, via platforms like Grailed, I’m excited by the possibilities that virtual and real archives offer in preserving significant artefacts and promoting circular fashion models. However, the field has not escaped the same crises of consumption and inflation that surround the fashion industry as a whole. In its more base iterations, I fear that archival fashion is little more than an insidious flex of power and privilege.’

LUCA NICHOLAS
Dries Van Noten Spring 2017 Menswear, 2024
Silkscreen monotype on Steinbach paper
Edition of 1
730 x 550mm (paper)
825 x 640mm (frame)
LUCA NICHOLAS
Dries Van Noten Spring 2010 Menswear, 2024
Silkscreen monotype on Steinbach paper
Edition of 1
730 x 550mm (paper)
825 x 640mm (frame)

LUCA NICHOLAS
Dries Van Noten Spring 2014 Ready-to-Wear, 2024
Silkscreen monotype on Steinbach paper
Edition of 1
730 x 550mm (paper)
825 x 640mm (frame)
LUCA NICHOLAS
Dries Van Noten Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear (Stretch and Horizontal Flip), 2024
Lithograph on Stonehenge paper
Edition of 6 + 1 AP
735 x 535mm (paper)
760 x 680 (frame)
LUCA NICHOLAS
Dries Van Noten Spring 2018 Menswear, 2024
Silkscreen monotype on Steinbach paper
Edition of 1
730 x 550mm (paper)
825 x 640mm (frame)
LUCA NICHOLAS
Dries Van Noten Fall 2014 Ready-to-Wear, 2024
Silkscreen monotype on Steinbach paper
Edition of 1
730 x 550mm (paper)
825 x 640mm (frame)
While in Belgium, Nicholas began to think about the complexities of archives of different kinds, including collections of valuables and databases of images. Such archives are often limited, screening out that which is deemed marginal. Entities within them are subject to degradation and distortion, physical and digital. Turning to the patchy archive of Vogue Runway, Nicholas selected photographs of Van Noten taken during runway shows. He drew and painted on silkscreen mesh using watercolour crayons and pencils and graphite, then pulled monotypes, consciously eschewing the print’s typical status as a multiple and creating a sort of uber-grail. Unlike conventional silkscreen prints, which are characterised by crisp contours, layered planes of colour, and a sense of control, Nicholas’s works are marked by glitchy smears and unpredictable textures. Richly gestural and palpably spontaneous, they draw attention to the hand of the artist. The images themselves focus on the hands of Van Noten, which appear by turns elegant and meaty, expressive and lifeless. Nicholas calls to mind the many connotations of the hand (the hand of the master, for instance, the many hands through which an item might pass), and reminds us of the primacy of the hand in traditional printmaking and garment-making alike.
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LUCA NICHOLAS
Dries Van Noten Fall 2020 Menswear, 2024
Silkscreen monotype on Steinbach paper
Edition of 1
730 x 550mm (paper)

LUCA NICHOLAS
Dries Van Noten Spring 2024 Ready-to-Wear, 2024
Silkscreen monotype on Steinbach paper
Edition of 1
730 x 550mm (paper)
LUCA NICHOLAS
Dries Van Noten Spring 2015 Menswear, 2024
Silkscreen monotype on Steinbach paper
Edition of 1
730 x 550mm (paper)
LUCA NICHOLAS
Dries Van Noten Spring 2019 Menswear, 2024
Silkscreen monotype on Steinbach paper
Edition of 1
730 x 550mm (paper)

LUCA NICHOLAS
Dries Van Noten Fall 2019 Ready-to-Wear, 2024
Silkscreen monotype on Steinbach paper
Edition of 1
730 x 550mm (paper)
LUCA NICHOLAS
Dries Van Noten Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear, 2024
Silkscreen monotype on Steinbach paper
Edition of 1
730 x 550mm (paper)

LUCA NICHOLAS
Dries Van Noten Fall 2013 Ready-to-Wear, 2024
Silkscreen monotype on Steinbach paper
Edition of 1730 x 550mm (paper)
LUCA NICHOLAS
Dries Van Noten Fall 2002 Ready-to-Wear, 2024
Silkscreen monotype on Steinbach paper
Edition of 1
730 x 550mm (paper)

LUCA NICHOLAS
Dries Van Noten Fall 2008 Menswear, 2024
Silkscreen monotype on Steinbach paper
Edition of 1
730 x 550mm (paper)
LUCA NICHOLAS
Dries Van Noten Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear, 2024
Silkscreen monotype on Steinbach paper
Edition of 1
730 x 550mm (paper)
LUCA NICHOLAS
Dries Van Noten Spring 2008 Ready-to-Wear, 2024
Silkscreen monotype on Steinbach paper
Edition of 1
730 x 550mm (paper)

LUCA NICHOLAS
Dries Van Noten Spring 2015 Ready-to-Wear, 2024
Silkscreen monotype on Steinbach paper
Edition of 1
730 x 550mm (paper)